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Rabbits

Livestock discussions including other discussions such as poultry, fish farms and beekeeping.

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Re: Rabbits

Postby Asatrur » Thu Dec 27, 2012 3:52 pm

I am new to raising meat rabbits, so I have some questions for you experts
1. We have 4 rabbits and 3 of them are set for slaughter, as we are going to use the mom to breed again. They are a cross between an American mom and a New Zealand dad and yypically how much should rabbits weigh before one slaughters them?
2. Regarding feed, we purchased the largest hanging feeder we could find, which is 4x4 inches and if we fill it up full, in a day or so it is empty with all four rabbits eating from it, so I am wondering is this too much food, not enough, etc.
3. I know there are many ways to kill the rabbit including the .22, broomstick method, and others, so what would folk say is the best method to deal with this task? We cannot slaughter in town, so I need to go into the national forest and deal with this.
Thanks,
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Re: Rabbits

Postby Disa » Thu Dec 27, 2012 4:18 pm

Asatrur wrote:I am new to raising meat rabbits, so I have some questions for you experts
1. We have 4 rabbits and 3 of them are set for slaughter, as we are going to use the mom to breed again. They are a cross between an American mom and a New Zealand dad and yypically how much should rabbits weigh before one slaughters them?
2. Regarding feed, we purchased the largest hanging feeder we could find, which is 4x4 inches and if we fill it up full, in a day or so it is empty with all four rabbits eating from it, so I am wondering is this too much food, not enough, etc.
3. I know there are many ways to kill the rabbit including the .22, broomstick method, and others, so what would folk say is the best method to deal with this task? We cannot slaughter in town, so I need to go into the national forest and deal with this.
Thanks,
Asatrur


I'm not an expert by any means but having acquired rabbits a few months ago I feel like I have read everything out there.

1. At 10-12 weeks most rabbits, especially offspring of NZs, will be ready for processing. At 10 weeks the rabbits are of sufficient size and and the meat is at its tenderest. After 12 weeks, the meat begins to toughen and there is not enough additional meat to justify the cost if feeding the rabbits the additional weeks. So between 10-12 weeks is the optimal time to get the best bang for your feed dollars.

2. Regarding feeding: Adult NZ bucks should have no more than 6 oz of feed per day. You do not want him getting too chubby as this will interfer with his ability to breed. Apparently, male rabbits get fat and sexually lazy! :) Adult NZ does should have about 8 oz of feed per day. Young rabbits should be allowed to eat whatever they want to optimize meat production.

Are all your rabbits caged together? It sounds like they might be and you might want to consider a separate cage for your breeding doe. That will allow you to have greater control over her diet while letting the young ones (in a separate "grow-out" cage) eat their fill.

3. My nephew swears by the broomstick method; however, everything I've read says that which ever method you use to dispatch the rabbits should be the method you are most comfortable with. We have yet to process at our house, but my boyfriend (to whom this task has been given) says he will also use the broomstick method. It saves ammo, avoids the bruising of meat that can occur with the "baseball bat to the back of the neck" method and is what he feels is the most humane since it is quick and relatively fail-proof. The last thing you want is a "do-over". But again, go with whatever method you personally feel you will be most comfortable with as you'll be more successful with that method.
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Re: Rabbits

Postby boltactionreducer » Tue Jan 01, 2013 10:39 pm

Asatrur wrote:I am new to raising meat rabbits, so I have some questions for you experts
1. We have 4 rabbits and 3 of them are set for slaughter, as we are going to use the mom to breed again. They are a cross between an American mom and a New Zealand dad and yypically how much should rabbits weigh before one slaughters them?
2. Regarding feed, we purchased the largest hanging feeder we could find, which is 4x4 inches and if we fill it up full, in a day or so it is empty with all four rabbits eating from it, so I am wondering is this too much food, not enough, etc.
3. I know there are many ways to kill the rabbit including the .22, broomstick method, and others, so what would folk say is the best method to deal with this task? We cannot slaughter in town, so I need to go into the national forest and deal with this.
Thanks,
Asatrur

first your set up sounds off to me you need pens for breeding and grow out pens after your bunnies after they are weened leaving adualt rabitts penned together is not a good idea they will fight also feed in a different pen wont be eaten in day and will not be as much of a chore. killing 22 or high power air rifle or use a hammer hanger you place the head inside at the neck and yank down hard on the legs this will break the neck you can also do this by steping on their head and pulling however the feel of doing this is rather unpleasnt for me and less efective as the other two. You can take your animals out of town if you wish however the task of butchering rabbits can be done almost anyware unoticed
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Re: Rabbits

Postby bennettvm » Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:47 pm

I sell the meat to a meat vendor at a farmers market. Sell pet rabbits for extra cash. We also use the rabbit droppings in our vegetable gardens. The best fertilizer.
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Re: Rabbits

Postby LewisJr » Thu May 16, 2013 7:42 pm

Anyone heard of American blues..that's what I'm breeding. And its a dual purpose rabbit
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Re: Rabbits

Postby Elite84 » Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:39 pm

I have the American blues they are hard to find, mine are breeding very well. Got 2 litters ready to go soon if anyone needs a breeding pair or 2.
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NZ white Buck Rabbits today!

Postby grizzwald » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:09 am

I pick up my two NZ white bucks today! I pick up two NZ does tomorrow. I will be using an empty chicken coop for my rabbit house (we have other active coops with chickens and turkeys). I have more cages to assemble; and fast. I'll be hanging the cages and diverting the manure into a plastic gutter which then will feed the manure into a collection bucket for transport to the garden.

Wish us luck!
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Re: NZ white Buck Rabbits today!

Postby pelenaka » Sun Aug 25, 2013 11:49 am

grizzwald wrote:I pick up my two NZ white bucks today! I pick up two NZ does tomorrow. I will be using an empty chicken coop for my rabbit house (we have other active coops with chickens and turkeys). I have more cages to assemble; and fast. I'll be hanging the cages and diverting the manure into a plastic gutter which then will feed the manure into a collection bucket for transport to the garden.

Wish us luck!


Your collection method is the bomb baby will make you wish you could do it for all your critters. That was the method we used for Winter when buns were in the green house. Warm weather cages were on top of raised garden beds. Every 3 days or so I just added a layer of dirt or leaves combined with green compost material.
Good luck !
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Re: Rabbits

Postby grizzwald » Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:56 am

I finally got my two buck NZ rabbits and my two doe NZ rabbits settled into the rabbit coop. I haven't decided when I will breed them yet.
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Re: Rabbits

Postby grizzwald » Fri Aug 30, 2013 4:40 pm

A video on my rabbit setup

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Re: Rabbits

Postby pelenaka » Sat Aug 31, 2013 2:40 pm

Looks good, your gonna love the cages hanging.
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Mmmm

Postby Asatrur » Sun Sep 08, 2013 4:06 pm

Just finished a lunch consisting of half of one of rabbit pot pies made with our own rabbits and veggies from last year. Cannot wait for lunch tomorrow for the other half.
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Re: Rabbits

Postby whitebear54 » Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:44 am

Whisper wrote:When I was kid I lived on a very small farm. We had 200 rabbits. I hated to eat them. A few were my pets and I didn't like white meat. I still am not crazy about white meat. What I have been thinking of lately is to go to the butcher and get some rabbit and try it again. Here's the question, how do I prepare it. Note, I can't eat spices. What are the best few ways to cook rabbit. I've seen lots of recipes on the net, but I'd rather have your opinions. I truly think rabbits are one of, if not the best way to prep. So I want to find a way. I am a finicky pain in the butt when it comes to food. :'(
Thanks all! :D


Whisper,

We always cook rabbits the same ways we cook chicken, but I prefer baked or roasted as frying can dry out the meat. When you say you can't eat spices does that include teriyaki sauce? My favorite rabbit recipe is to marinade the meat in East/West Sweet Ginger Teriyaki sauce then bake it at 350 until the internal temp reaches 165. My second favorite is to coat the meat with olive oil, sprinkle on a bit of poultry seasoning then bake as above. If you can't do poultry seasoning, simple salt and black pepper will do.
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Re: Rabbits

Postby whitebear54 » Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:32 am

Here's an article I wrote and published in Volume 27 of my Dying Time Newsletter (which you can sign up to receive for free at http://www.raymonddeanwhite.com

I hope you all find it useful.

Rabbits vs Chickens

Among Preppers the debate rages. Not the one about Trump vs Clinton. That one is settled. No, I’m talking about raising rabbits for meat vs chickens. I’m a fence-straddler myself as I say why not both. I mean, sure, chickens have several advantages. They provide eggs as well as meat and they can be amusing as all get out. Plus, over time, you can learn how to use them to de-bug your garden. But rabbits are even easier to raise than chickens and they produce meat faster than chickens. An eight-week old bunny produces a four-pound carcass that is more than half meat. Most chicken breeds require twenty-four to twenty-six weeks to produce a fryer with that much meat. Rabbits take less room to raise than chickens and I know of nowhere that has codes prohibiting rabbits, so they can be raised legally even in the heart of most cities. They are quiet, don’t smell and, unlike chicken manure, which must be composted, their pellets are such mild fertilizer they won’t burn your plants even if applied directly to your garden. Rabbits are also easier to dress out than chickens since there are no bothersome feathers to deal with. The final advantage to rabbits is they can also provide fur for slippers, coats, mittens and hats.

Warning for your first-timers out there. Both rabbits and chickens can be endearing so it is best if you DO NOT NAME THEM. Naming them converts them to pets and makes harvesting them for meat more traumatic—especially if you have young children. Rabbits are cuddly enough without having names attached. I’ve considered naming them Roast, Jerky, Fryer, Casserole, Stew—you get the idea—but have so far resisted the temptation.

Those of us who were raised on farms and ranches always knew where our food came from, so raising and harvesting a meat animal like rabbits or chickens teaches your children about the reality of eating meat. That lesson, that carnivores and omnivores must kill animals to eat, will help ground your kids in reality.

In my book, “Bugging In: What To Do When TSHTF and You Live In Suburbia” I called chickens the entry level drug of the livestock world because if you started with them before you know it you’ll have ducks and rabbits and maybe even those little Nubian milk goats. Your neighbors may think you’ve gone Dr. Doolittle on them, but so long as you can produce or acquire feed for them those animals will keep your family well fed.

For purposes of this article I really want to focus on raising rabbits, because, as I stated earlier, they are even easier to raise than chickens.

Since a typical litter is six to eight, a single buck and doe breeding pair can produce twelve to sixteen pounds of meat for your family in as little as three months without putting undue stress on the doe. If you do the math that comes to 48—64 pounds of meat per year per breeding pair. That is reason enough for me to have rabbits.
Now, I’m not claiming to be an expert. In fact, I’m pretty much a rookie at this whole raise your own meat thing. I lived on farms as a kid and my grandparents had both chickens and rabbits so I have had some experience but that was more than fifty years ago. So don’t take everything I say as gospel. Check it out for yourself.
The main site I’m providing a link to for information about raising and caring for rabbits. It’s called The Hostile Hare and they really know their stuff. Seriously, in a space smaller than a queen-sized bed you can grow enough meat for your family and probably to trade. Combining rabbit production with an aquaponics system and a few chickens could save your family from starvation.

http://www.hostilehare.com

The Countryside and Small Stock Journal is an excellent source of info on selecting, caring for and raising rabbits, chickens and other small livestock. That magazine is one of my homestead staples.

http://countrysidenetwork.com/magazines ... -magazine/

They even have a free downloadable guide titled Raising Rabbits for Meat: Everything You Need to Know, from Best Meat Rabbits, to Best Food for Rabbits and Other Facts About Rabbits.

http://countrysidenetwork.com/get-downl ... dtd=144138

Breeds

My wife and I are starting with Californians. They can produce fryers that tip the scales butchered at a bit more than two pounds in only eight weeks. It’s recommended to harvest them young for the best, most tender, meat. We may branch out to New Zealand or other breeds such as Cinnamon, Silver Fox or Champagne d’Argent later on, but for now we’ll stick with Californians. Statistics reveal that, if you feed your bunnies commercial pellets, supplemented with table scrap greens it will run you around seventy cents to produce one pound of rabbit meat. Of course if you have a well-fenced lawn (being desert dwellers we don’t even have a lawn), or raise lettuce and root crops in your garden, or have an infestation of dandelions, your feed bill would go down. I figure my wife and I can produce rabbit meat for a total cost of less than ninety cents per pound, including cages, feed and water bowls and other equipment. And for those of you who have never eaten rabbit meat, it really does taste like chicken, as it is a mild-flavored meat that really can be substituted for chicken in any recipe.

So how do you get rabbits? What breed should you choose?

We are getting ours from a local homesteader we know who hasn’t kept up with his butchering and now has too many breeding pairs. You can find rabbit breeders by contacting the American Rabbit Breeders Association http://www.arba.net.
Just go there online, click on Member Resources, then click Find a Breeder and scroll down to the breed you are interested in. Californian junior bucks typically run about $40 and does about $50.

My wife and I really want to try the Cinnamon breed as it is an American Heritage breed but they are expensive. So, until we are comfortable raising and harvesting the Californian breed we will hold off.

Housing

Many experts say it is not a good idea to house the buck with the doe unless you are breeding them. Bucks may eat newborn kits and Does can be very territorial and have been known to attack bucks so it is probably best to keep them apart until the doe is receptive. Since I’m going to raise rabbits outside that means I needed two hutches.

The hutches I built each measure 30” high x 36” wide x 60” long. Each one basically resembles this one you can get online at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Hendryx-4 ... ccc10ce330 but mine is bigger. I used 1” x 1/2” wire mesh for the open area wall. Like the one on Amazon the top is hinged as are the cage doors. Unlike the one on Amazon I have vent “windows” screened with metal window screen to provide better ventilation—as overheating is more of a problem here in Arizona than getting too cold. Those “windows” are protected from rain by the overlap on the hutches shed-style roofs. In the winter I can plug the windows with the pieces I cut out to make them.

I used 2x4 construction as we can have high winds here so I need it to be sturdy. It is also anchored along the back side to a chain link fence so it can’t be blown over. And for additional heat protection it spends most of the day in the shade of a tall spruce tree.

The kind folks at Hostile Hare have warned me that my wood hutches will eventually become expensive chew toys for my rabbits. When they do I’ll probably buy a Hostile Hare cage system as they work incredibly well here in Arizona and are designed with ease of use and maximum meat production efficiency.

Cleanliness

If you keep your hutch clean and disinfected your rabbits will live healthier lives and you won’t be faced with a choice of vet bills or culling your herd. Change the straw or wood shavings in their nest boxes frequently. If you use water and feed bowls wash them out every couple of days. If you use an automatic waterer, change the water to keep it fresh.

Rabbits are mostly healthy if kept in a clean environment. Their most likely problems will stem from external and internal parasites. You won’t be able to spot internal parasites such as pinworm or tapeworm until after you’ve harvested the meat. Internal parasites such as those make the meat inedible and, in fact, dangerous to consume so you’ll end up tossing it.
External parasites—fleas, ear mites and flea mites are much easier to spot. You can get treatments for these from a vet or a pet food store. Until you can do so it’s best to quarantine any affected animals to prevent spread.

But as previously mentioned, keeping the hutch clean should keep your rabbits from becoming infected.

Feed and Water

Since my wife and I grow root crops, lettuce and kale in the fall, winter and spring we can supplement the pellet feed by quite a lot. Here you should picture Bugs Bunny cheerfully munching on a carrot and saying, “What’s up Doc?” We will still use pellet feed just to insure our rabbits get all the minerals and vitamins they need. The recommended amount of pellet feed is about 6 ounces per day (think tuna can). We may eventually go to a fodder system. It looks and sounds good on paper and on the internet but for now we’ll stay with the basic feed bin. https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Food-Feed ... GVHNXTQGRH

I’ve been told it isn’t a good idea to let rabbits have access to unlimited feed as they will get fat and fat rabbits don’t breed as often. Thus we will opt for the 6 ounces per day per bunny feeding.

I bought an automatic watering system from Hostile Hare. Here’s a short video that shows what it is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BKYycRvUYY It’s far more sanitary than a water bowl. I used their watering nipple system because it’s been proven effective and durable and because it fits the 1” x ½” mesh in my hutch. If you aren’t much of a do-it-yourselfer, you can buy an All Weather Rabbit Water Bottle on Amazon for about $11 https://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Corporatio ... BAYM0E5PN7 but the water nipple kits I got from Hostile Hare are cheaper.

Aside from food, water, shelter and a bit of cleaning, rabbits are very low maintenance. You may have to trim the nails of your breeding pairs and here’s a link that will show you how to see if you need to do so. http://www.hostilehare.com/common-care/

Killing and Butchering

I have a feeling I’m going to be completely on my own when it comes to this task. Rabbits are cute and cuddly and I’m pretty sure my wife will balk at killing them. I’m not saying I’ll enjoy it but I’m a meat eater and that comes with certain responsibilities for those of us who want to be independent. And one of those responsibilities is to kill your meat animals humanely. This is important for two reasons. First, any stress to the animal during the killing process will result in the release of adrenaline and other hormones that will toughen the meat and adversely effect its flavor. Second, humane killing is less stressful for you.

Yeah, yeah, I know. Some of you are laughing at the very idea that killing a rabbit can be stressful while others are aghast at the concept of “humane killing.” If you are the latter sort of person and you aren’t a vegetarian, you probably think meat comes neatly wrapped in cellophane and Styrofoam container from your local market. All I can say to that is that if TSHTF you will be in for a massive reality check. If you are the former sort of person, who doesn’t blanche at or flinch from killing a rabbit then you were probably raised out in the country like me, or you are a hunter. We know that it is our responsibility to make the meat animal’s death as pain free as possible. It is our duty.

Here’s a link to three methods of humane killing. http://www.raising-rabbits.com/killing-rabbits.html Of these I might use the broomstick method but I’d use a piece of rebar instead since it wouldn’t break when I stepped on it.
When I was a youngster I used the arterial bleed method and if the knife is really sharp the rabbit seemed to die peacefully. Frankly, this is probably the method I’ll use as it’s inexpensive.

But I think the best method for killing rabbits AND chickens is a device known as the Rabbit Wringer. http://www.rabbitwringer.com/html/rp3000.html The only problem with this device is it’s a bit pricey at $90 (which includes the poultry adapter). It’s neat and clean and I can tell from the videos it’s easy to use.

Once the rabbit is dead the easiest way to dress it out for cooking is to hang it up on a gambrel. That’s nothing more than a set of hooks you can hang the rabbit from by its rear legs. Down on the farm we didn’t have a gambrel. We had baling wire. So I’d use a very sharp knife to make a circular cut around the ankle joint of the hind legs then wrap one end of a length of baling wire around the leg above the cut (thus on the foot) and run that length of wire up over a nail sticking out of the barn wall and down to the other leg where the whole wrap the wire around the other foot was repeated. There were two additional nails in that wall the the wired up rabbit legs were placed on the outside of those nails to the legs formed a “Y” with the rabbit’s body.
Next I’d cut the front paws off at the “knee” joint and cut the head off. Those items were discarded in a bucket that sat below the rabbit’s body to catch the blood draining from the open neck.

Going back to the hind legs I’d make a cut from the original circular cuts down the inside of the legs toward the groin. I’d cut off the tail and join the two leg cuts. Then I’d peel the pelt from around the legs and down to the body. Grasping the hide firmly I’d pull it down the body and completely off the rabbit—it comes off looking like a tube with the fur inside and the skin outside. Since we tanned the pelts I’d put it in a separate bucket for my grandpa to deal with.

Next I’d insert the tip of the knife into the belly of the rabbit at the groin making sure I didn’t pierce the bladder. As I gently widened the cut down toward the breast I would insert the index and middle fingers of my non-knife wielding hand into the cut and spread it open—making it easier to run the knife down the skin to the ribcage without piercing anything but the rabbit’s skin.

The next step is to pinch the anus closed as near to the opening as possible (you don’t want any crap leaking out) then pull down to release it and scoop out the rest of the intestines and let it all fall into the offal bucket.

I never was much for eating rabbit heart or kidneys but I’d save them for fish bait. I did, however, love rabbit livers (chicken livers too) so I’d keep them as well. And if you don’t like the livers, they also make good fish bait.

If we were eating rabbit that night, I’d wash the carcass off with cold water and put it in a bag to take to my grandmother or mom to cook. Now, I do the cooking.

Since rabbit is a tender, mild meat, it was usually barbequed, baked or roasted whole—like a chicken. It’s also good fried but it can be lean so frying can dry it out unless you’re careful. Whenever one of our breeders stopped producing their meat, since they were older and slightly tougher, would go in soups and stews. Any way we fixed it, it was delicious.

Once we got electricity on the farm (and shortly thereafter, a refrigerator) we could process several rabbits (or chickens) at the same time. But if you aren’t eating them immediately it’s a really good idea to put them in the fridge for at least twenty-four hours so rigor mortis can pass before either cooking or freezing the meat.

You can substitute rabbit for chicken in any recipe but my favorite is to marinade the meat in East/West Sweet Ginger Teriyaki sauce then bake it at 350 until the internal temp reaches 160-165. We serve this up with rice, baked potatoes or noodles. Another very simply recipe is to coat the meat with olive or coconut oil, apply some poultry seasoning (or even just salt and pepper), then bake as above. I sometimes marinade the bunny meat in Italian or Catalina salad dressing before baking it. Seems to come out delicious no matter how it's cooked.

That's it for now. Stay tuned next month's newsletter, where I'll discuss how Prepping instills confidence.
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